North Island Part Two
Tongariro to the Kaimanawa Ranges
After a much needed break in Taupo for New Years, it was time to get back on track and continue my way down the North Island.
The original plan was to start back up on January 4 but because of bad weather I decided it was best to postpone my departure until the 5th. The Tongariro Crossing is one of New Zealand's Great Walks, so I also wanted to complete the crossing in good weather.
Abby was down for the holidays and joined me for the crossing. We started our ascent at first light and joined the queue of tourists climbing Tongariro. After a steep climb up Devils staircase, the track flattened off and we walked across the large plateau. I remembered back to when I had attempted the crossing in snowy conditions a year prior. Heavy snow and poor visibility forced us to turn around at this point. Now though, the sun was out and we could make out all features on this mars like terrain.
Our turnoff was at Emerald Lakes. We took the track down to Oturere Hut. It was a peaceful walk out in mountainous country. After a long day of walking we made it down to Desert Road via Waihohonu Hut.
Abby who had to return to work back in Auckland said her farewells and wished me luck for the next few months ahead. We were both unsure when we were going to see each other again. The further south I travelled the harder it became for her to get down to see me.
I was absolutely fizzing for the next section. Again, I was jumping off the TA trail and going cross country to explore new terrain and to avoid unnecessary road walking. The 150km section would take me through the Kaimanawas, Kawekas and Ruahines. It was essential that I had family and friends join me at different stages as I would be walking for around 2 weeks straight and wouldn’t be able to restock on supplies by myself until I reached Palmerston North.
Tim joined me on the first leg of the trip through the Kaimanawa’s. Tim and I go way back. Mates since high school, we had done a few tramps together before but this trip was going to be the most testing. Full of optimism we began our ascent up into the Kaimanawa’s. After an hour of slogging up the Umukarikari track we emerged from the bushline. Up on the tops we were exposed to the elements and as we followed the ridge line north the wind picked up. Battling to stay warm, the wet weather gear was pulled out and applied. As we dropped down to Waipakahi river we could make out the hut. Our home for the night.
The following morning we were up at 6am. It was going to be a massive day. I had arranged a permit with Helisika to traverse across their land to reach Cascade Hut. The trail is described as a route, and was long enough to be split into two days. However, Tim and I both liked the idea of pushing through to Cascade Hut and taking a rest day the following day. 12 hours later we reached Cascade Hut. Our bodies sore, our skin burnt and our legs cut. The walk had taken its toll. We were shattered.
After a successful rest day, we continued further north up the Kaipo to Oamaru Hut. This was the departure point for Tim and arrival point for my Dad. I felt a hint of jealousy as Tim flew off in the helicopter. Part of me wanted to go with Tim. Back home and back to the comforts of civilisation. But I knew what had to be done and knew I had to keep going.
Kaweka Ranges to Ruahines
The chopper flew into the distance and disappeared from view. The transition was complete, my dad had replaced Tim. He stood in front of me with his 80L pack and a sack of food. He grinned at me and I grinned back. Time to head South again.
My pack was once again topped up with food and dug into my shoulders. We arrived at Boyd Hut just before sunset and caught a spectacular view of the Ngaruroro River and surrounding mountains.
After two days of walking (via Harkness and Venison Tops) we caught sight of the section that I was most looking forward to in the Kaweka's. The Main Range. This section is known for being notoriously windy but we lucked it and crossed it on a perfectly still day. To the west I could make out Ruapehu and Tongariro. I had barely gone a few km’s south of them. This detour through the Kaimanawa’s and Kaweka’s had slowed my trip down significantly but so far it had been worth it. I knew if I had stuck to the TA trail I would’ve been on some boring road in the middle of nowhere.
After 5 days of walking through the Kaweka Ranges, it was time to farewell my dad and greet Andrew (Abby's brother) who was going to join me through the Ruahine Ranges.
Ruahine Ranges to Tararua Ranges
After 9 days of walking through the Kaimanawa/Kaweka ranges, my body was screaming for a break. Unfortunately there was one last mountain range to walk before I reached civilisation. The Ruahine Ranges. Characterised by sharp, tussock clad peaks surrounded by dense and varied valley greenery, this was the one place in the North Island that gave me the heebie-jeebies. Maybe it was because one of the ridges I had to cross was called Sawtooth.
After a short wait at Comet Hut, Andrew (Abby's Brother) pulled up at the road end to restock me with food and accompany me for the next 7 days. We left the Comet Hut carpark and made for Shutes Hut and the Ruahine Ranges. The planned route over the following 7 days was to traverse the main range down to Leon Kinvig Hut, before exiting out the western side to Apiti.
After a short first day from Comet Hut to Shutes Hut, we knew we needed to cover some distance the next day to get through to the next hut - Parks Peak Hut. Over some juicy steak and peas, we discussed our plan of attack.
Up early, we climbed a well cut track to Taruarau Biv. The views from the ridge were impressive, although the cold southerly winds kept us focussed on where we were putting our feet. From Taruarau Biv to Ikawetea, the route became increasingly difficult to stick to because, well it didn't exist in places. After some bush bashing and compass work we eventually got to Ikawetea. We called a lunch break and looked over the maps. The distance we had covered in the morning was respectable and on any other day, we probably would have called it a day. However we knew in order to make it the southern end of the Ruahines we had to push on.
The second half of the day was much easier on foot. The track from No Man Hut to Parks Peak Hut was well cut and the only difficulty we faced was the increasingly strong wind that was blowing over the tops. By this point Andrew was starting to slow and show signs of fatigue. I wasn't surprised, it was one hell of a first full day for him and even after 3 months of walking, even my legs were beginning to feel it.
I'm not sure how we managed it but after 14 hours of walking we reached Parks Peak Hut. Absolutely shattered, we were welcomed into the hut by Magnus and Sarah - two TA trail walkers who like myself were detouring through the Ruahines.
After our big push to Park Peaks Hut, we decided we deserved a sleep in in the morning. After a cruisy morning, we slowly gathered our things and set off for Sparrowhawk Biv. Magnus and Sarah set off just before us, hoping to reach Sunrise Hut.
The walk on to the main range proved challenging. After a 700m descent to Upper Makaroro Hut from Parks Peak, we had to climb back up the other side via Totara Spur. While it only took 3 or so hours, the wind had been taken out of our sails. I looked back at Andrew as we climbed over Tupari (1527m), his face said it all. He was spent. Now that we were on the tops and nicely exposed, the wind was howling through. We were battling at every footstep. Was Sparrowhawk Biv over ambitious? it was mid afternoon and we still had a hard 6 hours ahead of us. We knew that if we gave up our pursuit of trying to get to Sparrowhawk, it would be very hard for us to make it through to Leon Kinvig Hut with the weather set to turn over the coming days. After a further kilometre it was clear that Sparrowhawk wasn't going to happen. We threw in the towel and turned around and made for Kylie Biv. I was disappointed that we had to turn around but knew deep down, it was the right thing to do.
The following morning, we woke to complete cloud cover. The wind had picked up over night and had strengthened. Now was the time to come up with plan B. Andrew looked over the maps for a couple of minutes before letting out a long "hmmmmm". I looked at him and he looked back and at me and said "I think...I have a cunning plan". His plan was to walk the tops to Te Atua Mahuru (1534m) before dropping to Maropea Forks Hut on the western side. I liked the idea because it gave us options to exit out west but was skeptical of crossing the tops in the high wind. However, as the morning went on, the idea grew on me. By midday, we were on the tops walking to Maropea Forks. Despite the wind trying to throw us off the ridge, we made the Hut in good time.
Once we reached Maropea Forks, we decided it was best to sit out the bad weather until it passed. It was 15 days since I last rested so I was happy to put my feet up for the day.
After our big rest day, we pushed on for Crow Hut via Wakelings Hut. On the descent to Wakelings, we routinely checked all the clearings below for deer. Andrew had brought his rifle with him and was itching to get something. I was about to put my pack on and continue down, when Andrew who was on the binos suddenly whispered "that looks suspiciously like a deer...". He handed me the binos and pointed me in the direction. He was right. In some shrub just below a slip was what looked like a big fat belly of a deer. We moved quietly down the hill to get a better look. This time we could see the head clearly. It was an 8 point stag. Andrew swore "Do we shoot it? It's pretty big!" he exclaimed. He was right, we still had a 800m climb up onto the next ridge. "I think we've got to give it a crack" I replied. We moved further down the hill. 400m, 300m, 200m. We were now directly across the river from the stag, tucked away in the thick bush. Just as Andrew popped into position to take a shot, the stag lifted his head and bolted. He was on to us. He made for the slip and disappeared into cover. "He's made for the bush on the left side of the slip" I whispered. Andrew now had his eye pressed hard on the scope and was scanning the slip. The stag emerged from the bush and was making its way to the other side of the slip. I looked quickly at Andrew, had he seen it?. Boom. Andrew had taken a shot. The deer instantly dropped, sliding into the shrub below. Andrew turned to me, his eyes were wide open. His hands were shaking. "You got it" I shouted. He nodded before producing a massive grin.
The next morning we were up early. With our packs now weighing over 30kg's with the added meat, we knew we were going to be slow on the climb up to Rongotea (1568m). As we lifted our packs on to our backs we both groaned. Yup, today was going to going to be rough.
At Rongotea, we decided that the best course of action was to exit via Mt Colenso. It meant we didn't have to climb back up again and would drop us down on to the Kawhatau DOC Base campsite.
For Andrew, the trip was over. Hayden, a family friend from Palmerston North came and picked him up from the Rangitane road end and I continued solo through to Apiti.
Once in Apiti, I met up with Jim & Sandie (I had organised a food parcel to be sent to them prior the Ruahine trip). They welcomed me into their home and put me up for the night. Jim a former deer culler, sat down with me and explained the various ways to travel through the Ruahines.
The Tararua Ranges
After a couple of days off in Palmerston North I was back on the trail heading for the Tararua Ranges.
Back on the Te Araroa Trail, I headed for Nicols Hut where I spent the night with Devon and Marina from Maine USA. They were also walking NZ on the Te Araroa trail.
After walking over Mt Crawford (1462m) and down to Waitewaewae Hut with Devon and Marina, I decided to push on to Otaki Forks by myself. After making good time along the track, I soon noticed that I was seeing less and less orange markers. I came to a massive slip and realised I had gone down an old DOC track and hadn't followed the detour. Trying to avoid the slip I ended up bush bashing through thick scrub and vines eventually losing my way from the track. As it got harder and harder to move and make progress my hands started to shake and my heart began to race as I tried to find my way back to the track. Eventually I sat myself down, took a breather and worked out my location using my GPS, phone and paper maps. I was relieved to find that I was only a few metres from the track and it was proving hard to find because it was a thin trail.
After 4 days in the Tararuas in pretty miserable weather it was good to be back on the open road. Waikanae was an easy 15km road walk from the end of the Tararuas.
Wellington
After some miserable weather through the Tararua’s I was glad to be in Wellington. With my gear saturated right through and my body busted up from numerous slips and falls, I was in need of a good break before hitting the South Island. I arrived at Paula & Scott's (Abby's Aunty and Uncle) house on Thursday afternoon after catching the train to Wellington. The plan was to walk the remaining 20km with Abby on the weekend, as she was flying down to spend the weekend with me.
It was a strange feeling walking into Wellington CBD. Knowing that my own two feet had got me there. It's definitely not the quickest way to get to the capital but it sure is the best way to see the country.
For the next few days in Wellington, I ate, slept, caught up with old/new friends and prepared for the next section of the trip. I was beyond excited to start the next leg of the trip - the South Island.
