Cape Reinga to Ahipara

It was the middle of the day and I could feel the back of my neck burning in the sun. My pack dug into my shoulders. I stood outside the lighthouse at Cape Reinga and stared into the vast ocean in front of me. This was it, the start of a 6 month journey through New Zealand on foot.

My first full day of walking was exhausting. I got hammered by wind and rain. My feet were starting to blister and the beach just never seemed to end. The Bluff campsite was a sight for sore eyes.

I reached Hukatare the next day and was greeted by Tanya - the owner of Utea campsite. She welcomed me to Utea and offered a hot shower, a bed and a roof over my head (she had me at hot shower). I shared a cabin with Stephan and Lea. They were a German couple also doing the TA trail. We decided to push for Waipapakauri together the next day.

The walk from Hukatare to Waipapakauri was only 17km but the walking was slow. My blisters made it tough walking and the sun was burning down on us. Some other TA walkers passed us at pace, pushing for Ahipara. When we finally reached Waipapakauri we ran into a friendly local on the beach named Peter. We got chatting and found out he just happened to have a couple of cabins for us to stay in. Again, I found myself sleeping in a proper bed.

Stephan and Lea decided they wanted to hitch a ride to Kaitaia to resupply on food. So, again I found myself walking alone. I walked past Lake Ngatu (recommended by Peter), into the pine forest and back on to the beach.

In total it took me 4 and a half days to walk from Cape Reinga to Ahipara. I was hoping to walk it faster but my pack weight and blisters slowed me down. If you're planning on doing the TA trail, then I recommend going as light as possible for this section. I made the mistake of taking too much gear and my feet and shoulders paid the price.

Ahipara to Paihia

With Ninety Mile beach out of the way, it was time to head to the East Coast. After a couple of days rest in Ahipara, I was ready to go again.

With my parents up for the weekend, my dad joined me through Herekino and Raetea Forest. We made it through the Herekino in good time, although our boots and backsides were a tad muddy.

The next morning we were up early, climbing a worn gravel road up to Raetea Forest. We had our fingers crossed for a less muddy track. Unfortunately, it proved even more challenging than Herekino. The track was narrow, boggy, steep and there was no water source along the track.

It was Sunday and my parents had to get back for the working week. They handed me some extra supplies, said their goodbyes and like that, they were gone. It was strange to be by myself again. Out of reception and out of contact, I set up camp next to a river on the edge of Raetea Forest.

With thunderstorms on the cards, I was madly checking the weather forecast, 50/50 on whether to push through Omahuta Forest to Puketi. The track follows Mangapukahukahu stream. A 3km section which is prone to flash flooding. I decided to risk it. I was lucky. The rain was steady but not heavy. I waded through the stream until I reached the intersection and the start of Puketi Forest.

Many of the TA walkers in Mangamuka had dismissed Puketi Forest. They though it was going to be another mud bath and decided to road walk to Kerikeri. While the rain was coming down, I was quietly stoked that I had decided to push through Puketi Forest. It was a beautiful forest that had some real nice bush, was well maintained and didn't punish the legs.

After a wet night at Puketi campsite, I was thankful for some sunshine. I had a casual morning drying all my gear and left for a short day to Kerikeri.

200km's of walking and I had successfully walked from one coast to the other over a week. It was time for a hot shower and some fish and chips.

Paihia to Ruakaka

After a days rest in Paihia and two blocks of chocolate devoured, I set off for Opua where I met up with my dad. He was joining me through Russell Forest.

After a morning of road walking, we got to the Waikare turn off (Where TA walkers have the option to get dropped off by a water taxi). From the turnoff we followed Waikare Valley Road up past the local school and entered Russell Forest. We followed Papakauri Stream up through the forest and camped out at the shelter with large group of other TA walkers.

Papakauri Road was a short walk over the hill in the morning. Dad collected his bike he'd stashed away at the road end and prepared himself for a 30km bike ride back to the car (legend). I watched him ride off into the distance and then carried on south.

From Papakauri Road I road walked down to Oakura, a beautiful quiet costal town where I spent the afternoon soaking up the sun.

After a 30km day, I made it to the small town of Pataua. With no clouds in the sky, I knew I had to find a good spot for sunset. The hill at Te Whangai Heads was the perfect place to view the surrounding area. My mate Dan showed me the spot a couple of years back. I vowed to return with my camera in hand.

The following day, I found myself walking along Ocean Beach. A beautiful stretch of coast that's DOC protected. I had intentions of heading over Mt Lion (395m) in the same day but it was getting late and my focus soon switched to finding a place to spend the night.

Ruakaka to Auckland

After the weekend off in Ruakaka. I was back on the grind, walking along Bream Bay. After ditching some of my gear and switching to my 40L pack, I suddenly had a spring in my step.

Once off the beach, I road walked through to Waipu and on to Waipu Cove. Setting up camp at the Waipu Cove Holiday Park. I parted with the TA trail after a Waipu local suggested the Waipu Coastal Trail. The coastal trail is still in it's early stages but it was a pleasant walk around the coast and the rock formations were impressive.

As I was walking into Mangawhai a lady pulled up next me. At first I thought she was going to offer me a ride. Instead she asked if I had accomodation sorted for the night. The lady called Kaye, proposed that if I mowed her lawn she would give me a bed and a feed. It was a no brainer. An hour later I found myself with a lawnmower in hand, mowing a lawn.

The next day I met up with Pauline, a french girl from Reunion Island who was also doing the TA trail. We walked the coast from Mangawhai to Pakiri, setting up camp at Pakiri Holiday Park. From Pakiri, I joined up with another group of TA walkers. Leslie and Helen from Switzerland, Gérard and Hanz from France and Scott, a fellow Kiwi. We headed for the hills and followed the TA trail through Omaha Forest. I parted with the group after Omaha Forest and carried on through to Dome Forest.

I was pushing hard to get back to Auckland for my brothers stag do and with 2 days to go, I still had 80km of ground to cover. I knew I had to put in some serious km's to reach Auckland. So I was up first thing after a night in Dome Forest. With no food in my pack, I picked up a couple of pies at the Dome Valley Cafe and set my sights for Puhoi. After 35km I reached the small town of Puhoi. I looked at my watch - 3pm. I was making real good time and my legs weren't doing too badly either. I topped up my sugar levels with a Coke and just kept walking. 5 hours later I was in Orewa, walking through the suburbs to my mate Glenn's house. As I came around the final corner, I saw him standing outside of his house. He gave me a big wave, I gave him a bigger wave back. I was stoked. It had been a huge day and I was about to be treated to a hot shower, dinner and a proper bed.

After 600km and 25 days of walking, I had made it back to Auckland entirely on foot.

Auckland to the Kaimai Ranges

After a week off in Auckland, it was time to get back on track. For the first time on my walk I was leaving the Te Araroa Trail and heading out to the Kaimai Ranges.

Heading to Miranda, I met and walked with a local named Ian. He had recently given up the city life in Auckland and moved to Miranda. We spoke about tramping, fishing and life on the coast.

With no idea where I was going to stay after Kaiaua, Mark, co founder of Sons of the South, came to the rescue. He got in touch with his parents who lived just outside of Ngatea, who happily put me up for the night.

The roads were long, flat and straight across the plains. A number of drivers pulled over to ask if I was ok or wanted a ride, explaining that I was in the middle of nowhere. I shared my intentions of walking to the Kaimai Ranges and then on to Bluff. They all looked at me like I was some mad man.

After 3 days of walking from Auckland, I reached Paeroa. From here I would begin my journey into and along the Kaimai's.

The Kaimai Ranges - North to South

My dad rejoined me for the Kaimai Ranges. With enough food for 6 days of tramping, we made our way to Daly's Clearing Hut.

I've lost count of the times I've been up Waitawheta Valley. Numerous overnight camping trips with mates or day trips with Abby. This time was different though, I was going further than I had ever been before.

The middle section of the Kaimai Ranges was physically demanding but the views were spectacular.

Crossing Thompsons track in the late afternoon, we began to tire and slow down. Our options for camp were limited, climb 300m to Kauritatahi Hut or carry on down the track to one of the streams and pitch a tent. We chose the latter.

As we approached the Wairere Falls turn off, Dad fell sick and decided it was best for us to split. I carried on solo to Hurunui Hut, the last Hut on the southern end of the Kaimai Ranges. As I approached the hut I saw a hind having a feed on some grass on the bush edge. Oblivious to my presence I snuck up behind it to see how close I could get. I got within a couple of metres before it finally realised. It looked up and within a second it had disappeared into the thick bush.

In the morning I climbed down the main road. Thankful to be out of the bush and back on the road, heading towards Putaruru and a much needed shower.

The Central North Island

From the Kaimai Ranges I had a couple of days to road walk across to the Waikato River and Pureora Forest.

With no accomodation in Waotu, local dairy farmers Sam & Pauline were more than happy to have me stay with them. Their kids even gave me a hand pitching my tent.

The next day I linked up with the Waikato river trail. The trail opened in 2011 and is managed by the Waikato River Trails Charitable Trust. The Trust was formed in 2006 to develop a network of trails along the Waikato with the aim of bringing visitors to South Waikato.

After a short stay in Mangakino, I left the cycle trail and made for Pureora Forest. I called it a day at a deserted YMCA campsite and pitched my tent. I’m not superstitious but it was an eerie place and I was pleased to move on in the morning. From Mt Pureora it was a slippery and muddy walk down to Bog Inn Hut. Back on the TA trail it was good to see the names in the log book of other walkers who I had met up north passing through the huts.

From Pureora Forest I roadwalked through to Tongariro Forest, staying in Taumarunui and Owhango along the way.

After a 1000+km's on foot I made it to Tongariro National Park.